DAY 22 - Thurso to the Orkney's (our only rest day)

Saturday May 28^th and no rain. As our train back to Euston from Wick does not leave until Monday, we decide to stay another night and take a day trip to the Orkney Isles. We misread the ferry timetable from the nearby port of Scrabster to Stromness and rise early enough to catch the 08:45. However, we discover it does not operate until June and the next sailing is not until mid-day.  We walk back the 2 miles to Thurso and are afforded a wonderful view to the islands from the cliff walk.

We still decide to make the trip – an hour and a half crossing past the forbidding cliffs of Hoy we see the dramatic “Man of Hoy” column that rises like a jagged spear from the ocean to form a stark silhouette against the sheer cliffs above.

The wind is violent.  As we approach Stromness we see the island is barren of trees and the wind is whipping up the harbour. Although our time is short we catch a bus to Kirkwall for a hot bowl of soup in “The Reel” next to the Cathedral which we visit. An impressive structure with rounded brick columns and gothic arches. The vision and hardiness of its founders in such a bleak environment is a testament to the hardiness of these islanders.

The return crossing is very rough. No doubt we will have rain again on our last short 20 mile leg to John O’Groats in the morning

Living at close quarters with Simon

We have now covered over 1000 miles and, despite expectations to the contrary we have by and large been very compatible. However, the man is slow. Slower than molasses in the morning and with a capacity to kip anywhere at any time, given the opportunity.  I learned very early on in the trip to go first in the shower for his passion for a bath and the associated ritual is like waiting for paint to dry. Enamel that is. I have also never known anyone to possess as many handkerchiefs which have taken priority of place to dry on any radiator in sight.

But, the man is remarkably dogged and resilient and I continue to marvel at his tenacity and good humour despite the conditions that have been thrown against us. I keep reminding him that this was his idea in the first place and, in a few short days we would miss all of this.